October 2009

Tool Terminology and Technology

Are you confused by new hair tool terminology—is it ionic or nano? Which clipper motor works better for thick hair? Don’t know the difference between tourmaline and ceramic, or what is supposed to be the best for hair?

Industry experts offer helpful tool technology definitions to assist stylists when determining what tools will work best for their client hair type.

Irons and Dryers: Ionic or Nano? Ceramic or Tourmaline?

Dominic Barbar, founder of Barbar Professional Hair Tools, offers clear, yet scientific definitions on new hair tool technology terms:

• CERAMIC — Uses: Curling Iron, Flat Iron, Blow Dryer. Ceramic technology negates radiation, making hair smoother and shinier. It can also help seal moisture in the hair.
• IONIC — Uses: Curling Iron, Flat Iron, Blow Dryer. Ionic technology uses negative ions to neutralize static-causing positive ions, yielding less frizz while restoring moisture to the hair cuticle.
• NANO — Uses: Flat Iron, Blow Dryer. Water molecules are broken down into extremely tiny particles, releasing frizz-reducing natural ions and allowing more moisture to seep into hair.
• TOURMALINE — Uses: Curling Iron, Flat Iron, Blow Dryer. Black tourmaline stones help protect hair from negative energy and harmful radiation to yield soft, shiny, frizz-free results. Black tourmaline emits negative ions and far-infrared (long wavelength) heat, which collide with positive ions to reduce static electricity, close hair cuticles and minimize heat styling damage. Far-infrared heat penetrates hair from the inside out to reduce drying time.

Clippers and Trimmers: Pivot, Rotary or Magnetic Motor?

Fred Koeller, vice president of marketing at Andis, offers an explanation to give you insight into clipper and trimmer quality the next time you are in the market for a new one.

When you’re choosing your next clipper or trimmer, you consider which features you need and decide what you’re willing to spend for those features.

But what about the motor? How do you decide the type of motor you should purchase? What’s the difference between pivot, rotary and magnetic motors?

“We always take into account the type of cutting that the styling tool is designed for,” notes Koeller. “Ideally, though, each barber and stylist understands the capabilities of the various types of motors, too.”

• PIVOT MOTORS—High Power, Lower Blade Speed: Thick, Heavy or Wet Hair
  Pivot motor clippers and trimmers have high cutting power with a lower blade speed. Pivot motors are especially suitable for thick, heavy or wet hair. Pivot motors can offer up to four times the power of comparable magnetic motors.
• ROTARY MOTORS—Equal Power and Blade Speed: Wide Variety of Cuts
  Rotary motor clippers and trimmers offer an even amount of power and blade speed. With this combination, rotary motors are extremely versatile and work well for a wide variety of hair cutting methods. Rotary motors offer superior torque power and cutting performance in a lightweight size.
• MAGNETIC MOTORS—Reliable Power and High Blade Speed: High Volume Cutting
  Magnetic motors provide incredibly high speeds—as much as 7200 complete blade strokes per minute. This type of motor produces a smoother haircut. Precision built to run quietly and cool, they are perfect for high volume hair cutting. These maintenance free motors require no internal oiling and last for years with fewer moving parts to wear out.

Brushes Can Make the Difference

Ernesto Alonzo, salon owner and industry expert, offers some things to consider when investing in brushes for your business or advising your clientele:

Professional brush lines have a range of sizes and styles of brushes for different tasks and different hair types. All brushes are not created equal. The shape and composition of a brush will determine how it performs, holds up over time, and even the amount of stress it puts on your wrist after hours on your feet doing hair.

It’s important to choose the right brush for the task.

BRISTLES

• BOAR BRISTLE — Natural boar bristle is an important component of a high quality brush. Because they are porous, boar bristles literally transport the oils from the scalp to the hair strands. This is the only way to actually nourish the hair. That’s why your grandmother always told you to brush your hair 100 strokes every day.
  
  Boar bristles have a second benefit, in that they also act on hair cuticles, closing them and creating a natural polished look one can only achieve with boar bristle.
  
  Not all boar bristles are the same quality. Boar bristle comes in three different cuts. The highest quality is called “first cut.” One-hundred percent boar bristle is best on fine, straight hair because it is flexible and minimizes breakage. Always use boar bristles for finishing—it creates shiny, polished, healthy hair.
  
  
• MIXED BRISTLES — Mixed bristles are a combination of 100 percent boar bristles and nylon bristles. Nylon bristles are stronger than boar but unlike boar, they aren’t porous or soft.
  
  Nonetheless, nylon is important in styling brushes because it helps create more pull, to help you grab the hair better. Some nylon bristle is crucial when you are working with medium coarse hair or very curly hair, although it is not recommended to use a 100 percent nylon bristle brush because that can cause breakage.
  
• PORCUPINE BRISTLE — A porcupine bristle brush is comprised of tufts of pure boar bristles with a longer nylon quill at the center. This nylon quill provides extra tension which is extremely helpful when working with extremely difficult hair that is very coarse or very curly or both.
  
  The way the bristles are set in the brush is very important too, since one configuration is best for styling while another is best for volume and extra lift.

CERAMIC, WOOD OR METAL BARRELS

Barrels are made out of ceramic, wood or metal. Ceramic is a fantastic material for the barrel of a styling brush because it holds the heat a long time and conducts heat evenly and naturally, without burning the hair.

Wooden barrels or wood with ceramic coating are also good options. The ceramic coating can make the wooden brush as efficient as a ceramic brush, but it will retain heat without overheating and damaging the hair.

The shape of the brush barrel is also crucial. An oval-barreled brush will give you extra tension and added control over difficult hair, from the roots to the ends, which are equally important in smoothing very curly hair. The oval shape is also best on over-processed hair. The flat area of the oval allows you to create extra extension, especially at the ends, giving you a flat iron finish.

LIGHT WEIGHT HANDLES

Handles should be light. Remember, you are wielding this tool all day. A well-engineered brush will get the job done without added weight. Let the brush do the work.

Most of us don’t skimp on our scissors. Why should we make the mistake of thinking all brushes are the same?

For more information on Barbar products, call 888-227-1414 or visit www.barbarartist.com. Andis Company, a family held business founded in 1922, is a leading manufacturer of handheld tools to trim, cut, curl, straighten and dry hair. For information call 262-884-2600 or visit www.andis.com.